Wednesday, April 03, 2013

Near Puigcerda. Historic mountain passes in the Pyrenees


The Pyrenees are an older mountain range, with soaring peaks like the Alps only in the High Pyrenees in the central area, for example.  Traditionally, there were three major passes for trade and invasion: one near the Mediterranean, at Perpignan;  one at the Basque country between St. Jean Pied de Port in France and Roncesvalles in Spain, toward the Bay of Biscay; and the Bourg-Madame.   

The Puymorens Pass, a/k/a the Bourg-Madame.  Think Tour de France here.  And recall that in 1930, the Italian cyclist who did so brilliantly through here, suddenly stopped, see http://cyclinghistory.com.au/abandon-of-binda-on-col-de-puymorens.  A fierce stage of the Tour is at the Tourmalet Pass.

Also think of Kipling and the Bourg-Madame; among many numbered passes in France and the battle-weary moving along them.  Napoleon's numbering still numbers, so the veriest ass can find his way. Route Nationale No. 20 in France takes one from Paris to Bourg-Madame, and the Spanish frontier; while Route Nationale No. 10 takes to the frontier at Hendaye, at the Bay of Biscay. See http://www.poetryloverspage.com/poets/kipling/song_of_french_roads.html

" Now praise the Gods of Time and Chance 
That bring a heart's desire,
And lay the joyous roads of France 
Once more beneath the tyre --
So numbered by Napoleon, 
The veriest ass can spy 
How Twenty takes to Bourg-Madame 
And Ten is for Hendaye. ***** "

The Somport Pass.  Through the Somport went Romans, Visigoths, Muslims, Napoleon's officers and men; and for pilgrims walking the medieval and current Way of St. James, Camino de Santiago, from France into Spain, and ultimately to Santiago de Compostela some 521 miles distant.

This span of central Pyrenees are high and difficult. Highest peak: 11,170 feet.  To place it, think south of Lourdes on the French side.  We did not stop for the cable car at Bigorre; or for the Cirque de Gavarnie.  That is a setting of 3 amphitheaters shaped by natural glacial activity, a UNESCO site.



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