Tuesday, April 09, 2013

La Seu d'Urgell - Monastery, Men's Home, Portal Door

Seu d'Urgell.  A seat, or place, of water, according to old words. It is also a crossroads for Andorra, although we crossed through Puigcerda to Bourg Madame, and places from all directions historically.

There is a Home for elderly men near the main Santa Maria, and a Monastery.  Ring at the gate, and you can access the outside.

Homes for the elderly we noticed in Europe are centrally located, and the clients mobile.  We put our folks in wheelchairs for the convenience of the attendants, and to prevent falls; but keeping up muscle strength and mobility may do more for the human being jammed in the chair, is that so? 





Puigcerda, Land of the Cerretani, Ceretans, Cerdania


Puigcerda dates from 1177 as a major town, and had been an early settlement of one of the most powerful Celtic tribes in old Spain, the Cerretani, or Ceretans of Cerdania.  They were conquered by the Romans.  Cerdania, the area of Puigcerta and its broad surrounds, extends over the Pyrenees into France, with a formal partition implemented in 1659.  Ceretans produced excellent ham, even back to Roman times.

This is a thriving town economically, and a lake created back in the 13th Century offers a splendid walk.  Parking is impossible.  Take your sextant and photograph where you are and GPS it, and pray.



There is a hotel in town, but by the time we tried to find our way back there, we already had found this lovely one:  Villa Paulita.  We get no kudos for recommendations, but do recommend this one. The dining and conference center are adjacent.  Hospes Villa Paulita.

Puigcerda, Hotel Villa Paulita, Cerdanya, Spain

The Cerdanya Valley is partially in Spain, partially in France, with historical boundaries fluctuating.  The French town, Bourg-Madame, also known for the Pass from Spain to France, is close.

General sources
Cerretani: http://www.tartanplace.com/tartanlegend/celtictribeseur.html
History of Puigcerda: http://www.puigcerda.cat/gaudeix/guiapuigcerdaangles.pdf
Tourism sites: http://www.spain.info/en_US/ven/otros-destinos/puigcerda.html

Thursday, April 04, 2013

Spain Travel Paratge. Catalan, Occitan. Word roots in history.

 I. Introit

Happenstance juxta
Pose. Brain-catching hotel ad -
La Hotel Malcontenta! *

Palamos! Paratge
Torremirona, Platja
de Castell 12. There.
 
A passing chuckle:
La Hotel Malcontenta **
Seeks disgruntled guests:

Missed it! An opp lost!
Delayed? We must return. Honk
If you're unhappy.

II.  Backtrack

Surprise. Accommo's
Elegant. Self-flagellate
For first neg impress. **

III. Perspectif

Catalan paratge:
Languedoc's Occitan, word
Roots, in Cathar death.***

Old Malcontenta:
Dissent. Tyrants' target. Killed
Elixir, Paratge.
.............................................................

*  Paratge here as part of an address.  New usage for us.

**  La Hotel Malcontenta, Palamos, street view/; and hotel website at  http://www.hotelscombined.com/Hotel/La_Malcontenta_Hotel.htm?languageCode=EN  Lonely Planet gives it 5 stars. Citeslisted here to make up for early chuckle at the name,  http://www.lonelyplanet.com/spain/catalonia/costa-brava/hotels/la-malcontenta

**  Now:  Consider Paratge, as it crosses the Pyrenees.

The term "Paratge" is here shown as a Catalan word, part of a postal address.  Paratge meant, in earlier explorations, the concepts of courtesy, inclusion, magnanimity, as among the medieval Christian Cathars in the Languedoc, now France.  Borders and connections over the Pyrenees were fluid. The Cathar-Languedoc language was Occitan. Word now in Catalan.

Paratge - see its appearance even in old warfare, as conducted by more noble humans than we produce today, see Richard the Lionheart and Saladin, and  http://worldwar1worldwar2.blogspot.com/2009/12/paratge-in-warfare-two-jerusalem.html.  Paratge.  The duty to do the right.  Common good governance.

Western religion:  astray when it exterminated dissenters.  Perhaps dissenters held more truth. See pudding.

Wednesday, April 03, 2013

Near Puigcerda. Historic mountain passes in the Pyrenees


The Pyrenees are an older mountain range, with soaring peaks like the Alps only in the High Pyrenees in the central area, for example.  Traditionally, there were three major passes for trade and invasion: one near the Mediterranean, at Perpignan;  one at the Basque country between St. Jean Pied de Port in France and Roncesvalles in Spain, toward the Bay of Biscay; and the Bourg-Madame.   

The Puymorens Pass, a/k/a the Bourg-Madame.  Think Tour de France here.  And recall that in 1930, the Italian cyclist who did so brilliantly through here, suddenly stopped, see http://cyclinghistory.com.au/abandon-of-binda-on-col-de-puymorens.  A fierce stage of the Tour is at the Tourmalet Pass.

Also think of Kipling and the Bourg-Madame; among many numbered passes in France and the battle-weary moving along them.  Napoleon's numbering still numbers, so the veriest ass can find his way. Route Nationale No. 20 in France takes one from Paris to Bourg-Madame, and the Spanish frontier; while Route Nationale No. 10 takes to the frontier at Hendaye, at the Bay of Biscay. See http://www.poetryloverspage.com/poets/kipling/song_of_french_roads.html

" Now praise the Gods of Time and Chance 
That bring a heart's desire,
And lay the joyous roads of France 
Once more beneath the tyre --
So numbered by Napoleon, 
The veriest ass can spy 
How Twenty takes to Bourg-Madame 
And Ten is for Hendaye. ***** "

The Somport Pass.  Through the Somport went Romans, Visigoths, Muslims, Napoleon's officers and men; and for pilgrims walking the medieval and current Way of St. James, Camino de Santiago, from France into Spain, and ultimately to Santiago de Compostela some 521 miles distant.

This span of central Pyrenees are high and difficult. Highest peak: 11,170 feet.  To place it, think south of Lourdes on the French side.  We did not stop for the cable car at Bigorre; or for the Cirque de Gavarnie.  That is a setting of 3 amphitheaters shaped by natural glacial activity, a UNESCO site.



Thursday, March 21, 2013

Ripoll. Santa Maria de Ripoll, Capitals, Chandelier, Alabaster, Mooning?


The old Benedictine monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll was founded in 879 and completed in 1046. It has been off the beaten path, away from coastal invasion areas, but near one of the main cross-Pyrenees trade and less devastating routes.   The church is Romanesque:  stout columns, massive naves, shallow buttresses on the outside because the height was lower, less force thrusting out from the walls, windows small, portals with sculpturing, molding,  cushion or other capitals,  towers, rounded arches, all preceding the lofty Gothic.


Worn figures still show coloring from original paint, and black faces and hands are not unusual.  It interests me because of the number of Black Madonnas in Europe, some easily explained as ground mold after long burying, others not so explained.  There apparently is a tradition of the Black Jesus in Italy, recently in a nativity display in Verona, that caused some discomfort among White Christmas folk (search) and an ancient one at Lucca, see http://austriaroadways.blogspot.com/2009/11/linz.html. Here, see also black angel faces. What explanation?


This circular dropped chandelier is reminiscent of Barbarossa's chandelier in Aachen, Germany, possibly, see http://www.sacred-destinations.com/germany/aachen-cathedral,
connections to Charlemagne, and another is at Vorden's Church, Germany, see http://www.germanyroadways.blogspot.com/#!http://germanyroadways.blogspot.com/2010/11/vorden-worlds-best-church-chandelier.html; when we post for Roncesvalle, I think we have a photo of a similar chandelier inside a building we could not enter, a Charlemagne-Roland memorial.






Then, eyes up for the capitals:  When we are long gone, who will know the lives we led.  These people are also gone, and we see visually the lives they led, the struggles, the battles.  Our remembrances are on transitory film, in the cloud, on photo cards, albums go in the trash as people scan grandaddy into the eternal not so much eternal machine.



Romanesque capital, is that God or Christ over Bishop and King?

Patterned cut-out ironwork, Catalan flag upended (so it appears), whose grave, Santa Maria de Ripoll, Spain. Buried here are Wilfred the Hairy, Raymon Berenguer III, Ramon Berenguer IV, Bernat Tallaferro, Count of Basalu, Radulf, Abbot of Ripoll, son of Wilfred.  Unknown location but there are, apparently, Sunifred II, Count of Barcelona (a/k/a Sunyer). Miro I, Count of Barcelona, and Ramon Berenguer I, Count of Barcelona. 
 

On closer look, this looks like an animal head, and a tail.  Help out here.  What is this? 


And the capitals continue to show ordinary people, here one with a distinctly Phrygian Cap, the pullover cap with excess fabric pulled forward .. 

Eyes down now.  Watch for the bases of fine capitals, this at the base of some fine red marble: animals ferocious, great tails. 


Portals are fabulous -- an entire blog could examine the extent of these carvings.  Here, we like the carvings, but focus also on the ironwork, the swirl, curl pattern, almost Celtic. There is a rosette shape at the top. These were not just decorative: this kind of ironwork held the thick slats of the doors together against invasion, at least for a while under stress.



Behind this capital is an original alabaster window, some light makes its way through the translucency.


This capital appears to show a king, with crown and sceptre, but -- look closely -- is he being mooned?  

This would not be unusual, as the practice was well entrenched by the middle ages, see http://www.slate.com/blogs/browbeat/2012/06/27/mooning_a_history_when_did_people_start_baring_their_butts_as_an_insult_.html.  Find mooners in Germany, at http://www.germanyroadways.blogspot.com/#!http://germanyroadways.blogspot.com/2011/03/luneberg-and-german-exceptionalism.html; and at the Sistine Chapel, above the altar, ceiling, search for images -- God dividing night from day.  There you are.Divine moon.
.


Saturday, March 16, 2013

Ripoll. Wilfred the Hairy. Santa Maria de Ripoll, Monastery


Visit Saint Mary of Ripoll and learn of early customs, naming people for a later-acquired attribute such as hirsute-ness.  These communicated visual and behavioral clues to the person that a mere "son of" or "daughter of" or "out of" does not.  Mourn. Catalonia was not alone.  See a flowering of names that meant something in the Icelandic Sagas, http://thescholarsgarret.com/opusculi/viking_names/, where one meets after the year 1010 (why then?), random sampling:  Gunnlaug Snake-tongue, Sygtrygg Silkbeard, Magnus Bareleg (a variation on the hirsutity?) , Olaf Tarry-cheek (?), Runolf Turncoat.

So, Wilfred the Hairy was the founder of this monastery in 888 CE, Santa Maria de Ripoll, and it has had a continuous history, including rebuildings, since then.  It retains much of its old character.  Wilfred was a Count of Barcelona, of the old Catalunya.  When he returned to claim his betrothed after a long absence, his mother recognized him because, according to http://www.barcelona-tourist-information.info/wilfred-the-hairy.html,
he had hair where others did, and should, not. Soles of feet? Beardorama? Either way,  Franks had taken over his throne, and with the recognition, he mustered his peeps and claimed his throne successfully. He then overcame the Moors, the Saracens at Barcelona, killed a dragon (these are not so fictitious, see four-winged birds at http://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/15/science/early-bird-species-had-four-wings-scientists-find.html?_r=0, are they?  see cultural references globally -- Dragons Around the World at http://library.thinkquest.org/03oct/01993/) and they do need to be vanquished.

We missed his statue, said to be at Carrer dels Comtes, to the left of the portal de Saint Iu. Wilfred slew the dragon without armor.

Catalan flag.  He also gave Catalonia its flag, see story-tale, the four bars, the Quatre Barres, that are also on the grave of Ramon Berengeur II. See http://www.barcelona-tourist-information.info/catalanflag.html. 

Sant Iu.  There is a Sant Ivo from Breton, 1200's.  That one?

Thursday, December 27, 2012

Ripoll. St. Mary's. Burial, Ramon Berengeur IV and maybe Berengeur III III

Ripoll is a place of medieval history: monastery, cathedral, cloisters. It dates from early middle ages. Prominent among the burials is Ramon Berengeur, possibly III and certainly IV.

This noble name, Berengeur, is important to us, because the name Berengeur, Berenger, Beringer, other forms, extends from Catalonia and Aragon in Spain, across the Pyrenees into the old Languedoc in France, Carcassonne, the Pyrenees.

Berenger at Rennes le Chateau. In France, just over the Pyrnees, is fodder for mystery buffs: a priest of the same name centuries later, and with local connections to Berenger nobility dating 'way back (the local castle), who suddenly came across or into a fortune, perhaps of Templar or Cathar roots in times of stress and flight from France, Inquisitions, Cathar "heresy".  See Rennes le Chateau, http://franceroadways.blogspot.com/2012/10/carcassonne-and-rennes-le-chateau.html. 

The lords of that Castle were of Cathar stock, Cathar sympathies. 

Was this 19th Century Berenger the recipient of the knowledge of the treasure because he was Berenger, or happenstance, or is all this just fun for researchers.

Another Berenger was a bishop at Carcassonne at the time of the Pope's infamous Crusade against fellow Christians, who would not swallow the required papal dogma, and so, were killed.


Most plaques at St. Mary's are in Catalan.  The plaque here, the Berenger memorial, is to be translated.  Looks like sepulchre of Ramon Berenguer IV, is he Sainted?  El Sant?  Count of Barcelona, marquis of Provence, prince of Aragon?  What is the reference to Ramon Berenguer III?



Google Translate says, "tomb of the saint ramon berengeur IV, Count of Barcelona, ​​marks Provence, prince of Aragon and, supposedly contains the remains of the great Ramon Berengeur III."

  • Ramon Berengeur III. Raymond the Great. He ruled variously from 1082 until his death in Barcelona in 1131, as Count of Barcelona, Girona, Besalu, Cerdanya (have to look all these up), and as Count of Provence (watch the territories shift over centuries:  Provence is southern France, across the Pyrenees) .  He enjoyed the Provence connections through right of his wife. Summary bio at  http://translation.babylon.com/english/Ramon%20berenguer%20iii/. Women in those days inherited, ruled. Husbands inherited lands through them, as Ramon here.  Ramon III died in 1131, and also ruled in early years in some areas with Ramon II, see site. A line of Ramon Berengeurs.

Berenger.  Berenguer.  Beringer.  An old name, nobility back to the middle ages in a time when boundaries were fluid, countries were unformed, dukedoms, counts, kings, empires jostled and warred and conspiracies danced through the years. Go to a place and then look up its history.

Ripoll:  Ripoll is a town in the foothills/midst of the Pyrenees.  Drive about an hour from Figueres, hairpin turns up the mountainsides. At Ripoll Place of the Santa Maria Monastery with its scriptorium where monks copied manuscripts, created books.  The earliest church on the site dates from 879. The monastery complex, begun in 977, is Romanesque, see http://kalmiya.hubpages.com/hub/Off-The-Beaten-Track-In-Ripoll-Spain.  Cloisters were begun in 1180, work continued for centuries.  There are fine and surprising Corinthian columns there.

Buried inside is Raymond Beregeur IV, name spelled variously as Raimond, Ramon, Berengeur.  Other counts of Catalonia are there as well.  Raymond was the "founder" of Catalonia, see http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Europe/Spain/Catalunya/Ripoll-256254/Things_To_Do-Ripoll-TG-C-1.html, that region including Barcelona and at one time extending across the Pyrenees to Carcassonne in the Languedoc, southwest France to us.

Berengeur, Beregeur.  Any nation has its treasured dynasties, some facts airbrushed out, some embroidery, but offering roots into a country's history. National family dynasties. We have our Kennedys -  the Bushes can never compare.  See the Kennedys at their compound, now in process of re-use, at Hyannis MA.

Family Dynasties. Example: Kennedy Compound, Hyannis MA. 1960's


Ripoll also memorializes the deaths of later "martyrs" from the Spanish Civil War 


Berengeur:  also a martyr of the Spanish Civil War, Aragon's Jean Baixeras Berenguer, see footnote, Wikipedia. *  Those of this Diocese of Urqell include names on the plaque -- but where is the nun, the sister also beatified. Sister Maria de los Angeles Ginard Marti. Was she not of this Diocese?  See http://www.fsspx.org/en/a_actualites/from-rome/a_beatifications-of-eight-martyrs-from-the-spanish-civil-war/

.........................................................................................
*There were some 20 martyrs from Aragon: Louis Vila Masferrer, priest, and nineteen companions, Joseph-Marie Blasco Juan Alfonso Sorribes Teixeido, Joseph-Marie Badia Mateu, Figuero Joseph Beltran, Edward Diego Ripoll, François-Marie Roura Farro, Jesus Augustin Viela Ezcurdia, Joseph-Marie Hernandez Amoros, Jean Baixeras Berenguer, Rafael Morales Briega Louis Escalé Binefa, Raymond Illa Salvia, Llado Teixido Louis Michel Gonzalez Masip, Faustin Perez Garcia, Sebastien Riera Coromina, Joseph-Marie Ros Florensa, François and Castan Messeguer Emmanuel Martinez Jarauta  Site:http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/15_ao%C3%BBt




Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Roses - Fine Dining. See Culinary Accolades




The Financial Times has a fine Food and Drink section. It features a restaurant near Roses this time, issue December 1-December 2, 2012, this long after our return:  The place is the family-owned Almadraba Park Hotel: Jordi Subiros and his father, Jaume. Jaume Subiros or a different? Not clear on Spanish naming.

We missed it -- staying instead last-minute and grateful, at the venerable, courteous and helpful Hostal Rom. This was a crowded, hot weekend (and that was fine, too, although our two rooms, one bed each, did not have an ensuite bathroom:  each did, however, have a sole-user lockable bathroom down the hall; the price was right).  Had we known of the Almadraba, we might have ventured out of town to eat, where all was booked, to find it. You can find it at http://www.almadrabapark.com/index.php?idm=3. Then again, we had an excellent parking space and would have lost it if we went wandering.

Does the Rom, where we stayed, have any connection to Roma?

  • Menu for meal, Almadraba Park Hotel for the reporter's fine dinner at the Almadraba: GENERAL QUOTES -- cool cherry gazpachy, creamy asparagus mousse, two fish courses (delicate brochettes of squid with tarragon vinaigrette; and two large sea bass oven-cooked "fisherman style (?), then slow-roasted duck with pear chutney, and then a birthday cake. CLOSE GENERAL QUOTES.


Monday, December 03, 2012

Figueres, Sant Ferran Castle, Fortress Castillo de San Fernando

Castillo de San Fernando
Sant Fernan Castle
Figueres, Spain
Citadel at Figueres
 

For military history buffs, and even those just interested in migrations and empire-expansion over centuries, and the resulting conflict and conquests, this Citadel / Castle named for Saint Fernando, Sant Ferran, San Fernando, is a major find.  It is a site where small forces began, and the same site enlarged and recycled for later needs, and is larger than the Citadel of Roses at the coast on the Costa Brava, nearby. It served more than Roses as a bulwark against invasion from the Pyrenees, and a launching pad for attacks over them. Roses concerned itself with invasions from the sea, just by location.

At San Fernando, the concentric (not quite circular, of course) walls show the progression of weaponry:  each wall could focus on a specific kind of threat coming its way.


This fortress began as a defense against the French in the early 1600's.  See http://www.castillosanfernando.org/ENG/castillo.php.  It was in use through the 19th Century. 


In the far distance, the Pyrenees.  As firepower range increased, the placement of the walls enabled short and long range weapons to defend.


The area covered is some 35 hectares (what is that? -- about 2.5 acres make a hectare)

Parade Ground.


The parade ground had to be large because this place housed some 6,000 troops and some 500 horses, here down below.  Note the dividers between horses, the tilt of the cobbles to a central drain.


Every citadel needs a jail.  This one offers at least one nice view.


Back to horses.  Cavalry in warfare.  Cavalry logistics.  How to manage 500 war horses. Five hundred down here.  Imagine the feeding, grooming, cleaning.  Horses in warfare:  see the Field Museum, Chicago, http://horse.fieldmuseum.org/behind/how-horses-shaped-history/warfare


Citadel at Figueres.  Spend time.


Sunday, November 18, 2012

Figueres, Inside the Salvador Dali Theater Museum

 Teatre Museu Dali.
Figueres, Spain

This institution is confusing for the non-Spanish speaker who expects an all-Dali emporium.  There are interspersed among the Dali works, however, works of others.  All focus on the same theme of surrealism, however, and are intended to ease the experience of Dali's world by seeing how broad that viewpoint indeed was.  And his influence on it -- which came first?  That is for more research.  All the included displays are excellent on their own. Nonetheless -- figuring out which of our favorites here, that we photographed, are really Dali is taking time. We finally got off the internet and referred back to the saved programs/maps handouts from the Theater-Museum itself.

The museum is in two parts:  The first is the area built on the ruins of a 19th Century theater destroyed in the Spanish Civil War. Dali himself designed this part.  He is buried in the crypt under the stage.  The line was so long we skipped it. And we were there just as the museum opened, in another long line.

  • Other Dali sites:  The casa Museu Castell Gala Dali in La Pera, and Casa-Museu Salvador Dali in Cadaques, north of Roses, and we did not get to those, either. Then there is another museum in Barcelona.

The second area is a complex of 22 additional rooms around as the museum expanded.  These contain works of others, including
 In other rooms are more works of Bouguereau, John de Andrea, Meifren, Ernst Fuchs, Silvere Godere, and Olivier Brice and others.  This list is to help me identify what I especially liked.  Am trying to look each one up.

Photos of favorites:

1. Salvador Dali. The Mae West installation, composed. Each component is free-standing, only showing the discernible whole when lined up from one angle.

Separately seen, for example, the lips look like a couch. See the virtual site at http://www.salvador-dali.org/museus/figueres/en_visita-virtual_4.html



2.  Dragon and Egg, series, jewelry-like sculpture.  

This sculpture does not appear to be on the list of works at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_works_by_Salvador_Dal%C3%AD.  Need to check at the Figueres site and any museum materials we brought back.  Tracking specific works is difficult, see http://www.salvador-dali.org/museus/figueres/en_historia.html

Other internet sites also do not identify it, see http://www.flickr.com/photos/larryhalff/4050284471/


3. Salvador Dali, Maquette for the Scenery for Labyrinth, see it identified at http://www.artwallpapers.org/paintings/Salvador-Dali/imagepages/image1112.htm.   Painting, torso, heart.  1941.  Ours here is clearer, shows better facial-cranial detail.



4.  Sculpture composition, cross, hanging figures, barbed wire?


5.  Painter Evariste Valles -- see the theme of falling upholsterer-type tacks


6. Salvador Dali, Rainy Cadillac. 1941 car. This one rains inside when a coin is inserted, see http://www.theculturebite.com/tag/museums/  That was not happening when we were there. The earth-mother-warrior figure -- which is adulated the more.  Or does the one lead to the other?


7.  Salvador Dali.  Boat suspended in the air, 50' up there, with Dali's partner, Gala, inside. Tears suspend from the suspended boat, made of condoms.


8.  Salvador Dali, pen and ink series

Note the woman below.